The problem of sea wave transformation in the coastal zone taking into account effects of nonlinearity and dispersion is studied. Model is based on the methods of nonlinear ray theory. Numerical algorithm of solution of the variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries equation is described. Examples of the wind wave transformation in the coastal zone due to nonlinear and dispersive effects are given. Numerical simulations show that modulated wind waves are transformed into weakly modulated wave groups while propagating to the shallow water. Analytical approach for description of wind wave envelope. using the nonlinear Schrodinger equation, is applied also. Transformation of the wave height distribution is studied.
|Number of pages||11|
|State||Published - 1995|
|Event||Proceedings of the 1995 International Conference on Coastal Research in Terms of Large Scale Experiments - Gdansk, Pol|
Duration: 4 Sep 1995 → 8 Sep 1995
|Conference||Proceedings of the 1995 International Conference on Coastal Research in Terms of Large Scale Experiments|
|Period||4/09/95 → 8/09/95|