On kinematics and dynamics of breaking water waves

Lev Shemer*, S. Henri Noskowitz

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalConference articlepeer-review


Velocities and accelerations at crests of extremely steep waves on verge of breaking are studied up to the 3rd order in wave steepness using the Zakharov equation. The theoretical analysis follows the experimental results on focusing of extremely steep waves obtained in two experimental facilities that differ significantly in size. Distinction is made between the apparent, Eulerian and Lagrangian accelerations.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)205-212
Number of pages8
JournalProcedia IUTAM
StatePublished - 2013
EventIUTAM Symposium on Waves in Fluids: Effects of Nonlinearity, Rotation, Stratification and Dissipation - Moscow, Russian Federation
Duration: 18 Jun 201222 Jun 2012


  • Extreme waves
  • Nonlinear waves
  • Rogure waves
  • Waves kinematics
  • Zakharov equation


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