On kinematics and dynamics of breaking water waves

Lev Shemer; S. Henri Noskowitz

doi:10.1016/j.piutam.2013.04.026

On kinematics and dynamics of breaking water waves

Lev Shemer^*, S. Henri Noskowitz

^*Corresponding author for this work

School of Mechanical Engineering

Research output: Contribution to journal › Conference article › peer-review

Abstract

Velocities and accelerations at crests of extremely steep waves on verge of breaking are studied up to the 3^rd order in wave steepness using the Zakharov equation. The theoretical analysis follows the experimental results on focusing of extremely steep waves obtained in two experimental facilities that differ significantly in size. Distinction is made between the apparent, Eulerian and Lagrangian accelerations.

Original language	English
Pages (from-to)	205-212
Number of pages	8
Journal	Procedia IUTAM
Volume	8
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1016/j.piutam.2013.04.026
State	Published - 2013
Event	IUTAM Symposium on Waves in Fluids: Effects of Nonlinearity, Rotation, Stratification and Dissipation - Moscow, Russian Federation Duration: 18 Jun 2012 → 22 Jun 2012

Keywords

Extreme waves
Nonlinear waves
Rogure waves
Waves kinematics
Zakharov equation

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10.1016/j.piutam.2013.04.026

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title = "On kinematics and dynamics of breaking water waves",

abstract = "Velocities and accelerations at crests of extremely steep waves on verge of breaking are studied up to the 3rd order in wave steepness using the Zakharov equation. The theoretical analysis follows the experimental results on focusing of extremely steep waves obtained in two experimental facilities that differ significantly in size. Distinction is made between the apparent, Eulerian and Lagrangian accelerations.",

keywords = "Extreme waves, Nonlinear waves, Rogure waves, Waves kinematics, Zakharov equation",

author = "Lev Shemer and Noskowitz, {S. Henri}",

note = "Funding Information: This work was supported by a grant # 2010219 from US – Israel Binational Science Foundation.; null ; Conference date: 18-06-2012 Through 22-06-2012",

year = "2013",

doi = "10.1016/j.piutam.2013.04.026",

language = "אנגלית",

volume = "8",

pages = "205--212",

journal = "Procedia IUTAM",

issn = "2210-9838",

publisher = "Elsevier",

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TY - JOUR

T1 - On kinematics and dynamics of breaking water waves

AU - Shemer, Lev

AU - Noskowitz, S. Henri

N1 - Funding Information: This work was supported by a grant # 2010219 from US – Israel Binational Science Foundation.

PY - 2013

Y1 - 2013

N2 - Velocities and accelerations at crests of extremely steep waves on verge of breaking are studied up to the 3rd order in wave steepness using the Zakharov equation. The theoretical analysis follows the experimental results on focusing of extremely steep waves obtained in two experimental facilities that differ significantly in size. Distinction is made between the apparent, Eulerian and Lagrangian accelerations.

AB - Velocities and accelerations at crests of extremely steep waves on verge of breaking are studied up to the 3rd order in wave steepness using the Zakharov equation. The theoretical analysis follows the experimental results on focusing of extremely steep waves obtained in two experimental facilities that differ significantly in size. Distinction is made between the apparent, Eulerian and Lagrangian accelerations.

KW - Extreme waves

KW - Nonlinear waves

KW - Rogure waves

KW - Waves kinematics

KW - Zakharov equation

UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=84878696427&partnerID=8YFLogxK

U2 - 10.1016/j.piutam.2013.04.026

DO - 10.1016/j.piutam.2013.04.026

M3 - מאמר מכנס

AN - SCOPUS:84878696427

VL - 8

SP - 205

EP - 212

JO - Procedia IUTAM

JF - Procedia IUTAM

SN - 2210-9838

Y2 - 18 June 2012 through 22 June 2012

ER -

On kinematics and dynamics of breaking water waves

Abstract

Keywords

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