Numerical simulation of wave transformation across the surf zone over a steep bottom

Tai Wen Hsu, Ta Yuan Lin, Hwung Hweng Hwung, Yaron Toledo, Aron Roland

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contributionpeer-review

Abstract

The combined effect of shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a sloping bottom was investigated. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE) which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The evolution equation of the MSE is implemented in the numerical solution which provides an efficient scheme for describing wave transformation in a large coastal area. The model validity is verified by comparison to accurate numerical models, laboratory experiments and analytical solutions of waves travelling over a steep sloping beach.

Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationASME 2010 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering, OMAE2010
Pages559-564
Number of pages6
DOIs
StatePublished - 2010
Externally publishedYes
EventASME 2010 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering, OMAE2010 - Shanghai, China
Duration: 6 Jun 201011 Jun 2010

Publication series

NameProceedings of the International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering - OMAE
Volume4

Conference

ConferenceASME 2010 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering, OMAE2010
Country/TerritoryChina
CityShanghai
Period6/06/1011/06/10

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