TY - GEN
T1 - Numerical simulation of wave transformation across the surf zone over a steep bottom
AU - Hsu, Tai Wen
AU - Lin, Ta Yuan
AU - Hwung, Hwung Hweng
AU - Toledo, Yaron
AU - Roland, Aron
PY - 2010
Y1 - 2010
N2 - The combined effect of shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a sloping bottom was investigated. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE) which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The evolution equation of the MSE is implemented in the numerical solution which provides an efficient scheme for describing wave transformation in a large coastal area. The model validity is verified by comparison to accurate numerical models, laboratory experiments and analytical solutions of waves travelling over a steep sloping beach.
AB - The combined effect of shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a sloping bottom was investigated. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE) which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The evolution equation of the MSE is implemented in the numerical solution which provides an efficient scheme for describing wave transformation in a large coastal area. The model validity is verified by comparison to accurate numerical models, laboratory experiments and analytical solutions of waves travelling over a steep sloping beach.
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=80053977842&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1115/OMAE2010-20974
DO - 10.1115/OMAE2010-20974
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AN - SCOPUS:80053977842
SN - 9780791849125
T3 - Proceedings of the International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering - OMAE
SP - 559
EP - 564
BT - ASME 2010 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering, OMAE2010
T2 - ASME 2010 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering, OMAE2010
Y2 - 6 June 2010 through 11 June 2010
ER -
